The next couple of days were spent doing what the Riviera seems designed for — not rushing.
We wandered the market in Saint-Raphaël, picking up fresh fruit, vegetables and bakery items for dinner, revisited one of my favourite restaurants in the area, drove the coastal road to Saint-Tropez where we accidentally stumbled into a full military festival, and spent a day exploring Nice.
In truth, we didn’t “do” a great deal. We wandered, drank coffee, browsed shops, and took a few obligatory photos of the Porsche framed by palm trees and the Mediterranean. And that was entirely the point.
Saint-Raphaël & Fréjus
Saint-Raphaël sits quietly between the more headline-grabbing names of the Riviera. Founded as a Roman port and later developed during the Belle Époque, it has long attracted visitors looking for sunshine without quite the same intensity as Cannes or Saint-Tropez.
Just next door is Fréjus, once an important Roman city known as Forum Julii. You can still find Roman ruins scattered around the town, including an amphitheatre and aqueduct remnants, subtle reminders that people have been choosing this stretch of coastline for a very long time.
The markets in Saint-Raphaël felt reassuringly local — less show, more substance. Stalls heavy with tomatoes, olives, cheeses, herbs and fresh bread. It’s hard not to overbuy when everything smells like it’s been picked that morning.
Galettes and Simple Pleasures
The town also happens to be home to one of my favourite foods — galettes bretonnes.
Unlike sweet crêpes, galettes are made from buckwheat flour, giving them a slightly nuttier flavour and a more rustic texture. Traditionally savoury, they’re folded around fillings like ham, cheese, egg or mushrooms and served simply, without fuss. They’re the kind of dish that feels honest rather than showy, proper French comfort food.
One of my favourite places for them is La Crêperie du Vieux Port. It’s not fancy. There are no Michelin stars, no crisp white tablecloths, no theatrical presentation. Just straightforward, well-made galettes, good crêpes, and a cold Orangina if the mood takes you.
When the Mediterranean is directly across the road and there’s sea air drifting through the tables, you realise you don’t need fine dining to feel like you’ve eaten well.
Saint-Tropez and the Bravades
One afternoon we drove the coastal road up to Saint-Tropez — a stretch that never disappoints, with the Mediterranean shimmering on one side and pine-covered hills on the other.
As we arrived, it quickly became clear something unusual was happening. The town was in full festival mode, celebrating Les Bravades de Saint-Tropez.
The Bravades date back to the 16th century and commemorate Saint-Tropez’s military past, particularly the town’s defence against Spanish forces in 1637. For three days each May, locals dress in traditional military uniforms, march through the streets, fire muskets and cannons, and honour their patron saint in a celebration that blends religion, history and plenty of merriment.
We hadn’t planned it, but sometimes the best travel moments are the accidental ones.
Between the marching bands and re-enactments, we grabbed lunch by the harbour, bought a few gifts for home, and wandered through a town better known today for superyachts and celebrity visitors than muskets and cannon fire.
Saint-Tropez became internationally famous in the 1950s and 60s thanks to Brigitte Bardot and the French New Wave film scene, and over the years it has attracted everyone from film stars to fashion designers and Formula One drivers. Today it remains synonymous with Riviera glamour — though look past the yachts and you’ll still find a working Provençal town underneath it all.
A Stormy Day in Nice
The following day we headed up to Nice.
The drive itself was straightforward, though traffic thickened as we approached the city. We parked underground and, as we climbed the stairs to street level, it began to rain. Not very South of France at all.
We ducked in and out of shops, stopped for coffee, and once the rain eased made our way to the Old Town to visit the Marché à la Brocante Saleya.
Located in Cours Saleya, this market is known for antiques and vintage goods, and sits just behind the more famous flower and produce market. The surrounding pastel buildings, striped awnings and narrow lanes make it one of the most photogenic corners of Nice, even under grey skies.
After a brief walk up Castle Hill for views across the bay, we returned to the city centre to wander through the Promenade du Paillon, browse the grander shops, and walk along the iconic Promenade des Anglais.
Nice has a slightly different energy to Saint-Raphaël, bigger, busier, more metropolitan, but still anchored by the same Riviera light and sea air.
Thunderstorms and Hot Tubs
On the drive back the heavens opened once more. That evening, rather than complain about the weather, we leaned into it.
Back at the holiday home we cooked dinner, sampled a questionable local spirit that tasted suspiciously like mouthwash, opened a couple of beers and eventually found ourselves sitting in the hot tub in the pouring rain as a thunderstorm rolled overhead.
We were wet anyway. A bit more water wasn’t going to hurt.
Sometimes, those are the moments that stick.
Monaco Classic Grand Prix 2024: Gallery and videos of Cars & Racing
