Our final day in Canada began with blue skies and another promise of lakeside scenery. Leaving Toronto around 10 a.m., we set off towards Gananoque for our last night north of the border. As always, we avoided the highways and hugged the smaller roads that shadow Lake Ontario, determined to see a little more of real Ontario before heading back to the USA.
Leaving Toronto
Toronto on a Sunday morning was surprisingly calm. The streets that had been busy and bright the night before were now quiet, with only the occasional jogger or cyclist passing by as we loaded up the car. The air was cool and clear, the CN Tower glinting in the rear-view mirror as we made our way out of the city.
We followed the route through Toronto’s eastern suburbs, where glass towers gradually gave way to tree-lined residential streets and low-rise brick houses. Within an hour, the city’s buzz had faded into open road, with glimpses of Lake Ontario appearing between the trees. It felt good to be back behind the wheel again — windows down, radio on, and that familiar sense of the road opening up ahead.
Through the Suburbs to Oshawa
Our route took us through Scarborough and Whitby before reaching Oshawa, home of the Parkwood Estate — a grand mansion once owned by Samuel McLaughlin, founder of General Motors of Canada. Built in 1917, the house blends Beaux-Arts and Art Deco styles and was one of the most innovative residences of its era, complete with early examples of intercom systems, concealed lighting and indoor garages. It’s now a National Historic Site and has appeared in countless films and TV series — including X-Men and Billy Madison.
We wandered the manicured gardens and admired the period architecture before getting back on the road, feeling like we’d stepped briefly into the golden age of motoring itself.
Backroads and Lakeside Towns
From Oshawa we continued east through Bowmanville, Newcastle and Port Hope — all postcard-pretty towns with church spires, clapboard houses and lakeside beaches. We detoured down to the water wherever we could, winding through quiet neighbourhoods of large houses with gardens rolling down to the lake. A quick Tim Hortons stop in Cobourg supplied coffee and doughnuts for the road, before a short visit to the Haldimand Conservation Area and a scenic drive across Zwick Island.
Kingston Mills Lockstation – A Step Back in Time
Later in the afternoon we reached Kingston Mills, home to one of the original Rideau Canal Lockstations. The Rideau Canal itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site stretching 202 km from Ottawa to Kingston, built between 1826 and 1832 by British engineers as a secure supply route in case of conflict with the United States. The locks at Kingston Mills are still hand-operated, lifting and lowering boats more than 14 metres between levels. We stopped to watch as a small cruiser was guided through, the wooden gates creaking and the sun glinting off the water — a peaceful reminder of another era of travel.
Arrival in Gananoque
From Kingston Mills it was only a short, sun-drenched drive to Gananoque, known as the gateway to the Thousand Islands. Our home for the night was the charming 1000 Island Bed and Breakfast — a beautiful old building run by a slightly eccentric but wonderfully friendly owner. She welcomed us like old friends, told stories about the history of the house and the region, and made us feel instantly at home. After checking in and changing, we sat on the balcony with a coffee, watching the evening settle over the quiet streets.
Dinner at the Stonewater Pub
As dusk fell we headed down to the lakeshore for a few quick photos before choosing the Stonewater Pub for dinner. It turned out to be an inspired choice — no frills, just great food, cold beer and friendly service. We shared crisp salads, pitchers of local ale, and what might genuinely be the best deep-fried mozzarella on the planet. If you ever find yourself in Gananoque, this place is a must.
The evening even came with a touch of theatre as a dispute erupted at a nearby table, prompting a dramatic exit from the waitress and amused glances all around. We couldn’t help but laugh — every road trip needs at least one dinner story.
The evening even came with a touch of theatre as a dispute erupted at a nearby table, prompting a dramatic exit from the waitress and amused glances all around. We couldn’t help but laugh — every road trip needs at least one dinner story.
Ending the Day
We left the pub around 10 p.m., strolling back through the warm September night, the town quiet and peaceful. It had been a long but thoroughly enjoyable day — scenic drives, unexpected history, good company and even better cheese. Tomorrow we head south, crossing back into the USA for our next stop: Saratoga Springs.
