Day 5 of our East Coast USA and Canada road trip took us from the peaceful charm of Niagara-on-the-Lake to the bustling streets of Toronto. A day that started with sunshine and French toast ended with live music and margaritas — proof that travel days don’t need to be long to be memorable.
Breakfast on the Veranda
We began the morning with a home-cooked breakfast on the hotel veranda — French toast with fruit and eggs Benedict — while watching classic cars glide past and locals go about their Saturday routines. It felt like the calm before the city storm, a perfect farewell to Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Lakeside Roads and Misty Views
We left the hotel around 10 a.m., once again avoiding the highway and hugging the roads close to Lake Ontario. The plan was plenty of photo stops and pretty scenery, but the weather had other ideas. What began as a sunny morning quickly turned to low mist and grey skies — the lake barely visible through the haze.
It also turns out that if you want to actually see the lake, you need to buy one of the expensive houses sitting right on its edge. Scenic lookouts were few and far between, and most of the drive was along the North Service Road with the motorway on one side and neat housing estates on the other.
Every so often we turned into side roads and wound our way through small towns like Lincoln and Grimsby — the Canadian one, which is much prettier than its English cousin. Tree-lined streets, tidy homes, and a sense of small-town calm made the drive feel authentically local.
Our First Canadian Tim Hortons
Somewhere between Lincoln and Hamilton, we pulled into our first Tim Hortons on Canadian soil. We’d never quite understood the fuss back in England, but here it clicked. Two apple fritters and a couple of steaming coffees later, we were converts. Tasty, quick, and noticeably cheaper than Starbucks — it’s easy to see why Canada loves it.
Hamilton Beach and the Road to Oakville
Our next stop was Hamilton Beach. Unfortunately, the mist still hadn’t lifted, and the lake stretched into nothingness — a pale grey sheet of water blending into sky. We carried on through Hamilton City and on towards Oakville, a lively town where millionaire mansions lined the road and the cars gleamed almost as much as the lakefront views.
First Glimpse of Toronto
Eventually we had no choice but to join the highway as the backroads merged into the sprawl of Canada’s biggest city. Traffic thickened, lanes multiplied, and before long we caught our first glimpse of the CN Tower rising through the haze. Moments later, we passed the Budweiser Stage on the right — a venue that would take centre stage later that evening.
Checking In at The Omni King Edward
We pulled up to The Omni King Edward Hotel in the early afternoon. The valet whisked the car away while the doorman handled our luggage — a far cry from the roadside motels of previous nights. Check-in was seamless, the grand lobby elegant, and the receptionist even shared a few local tips for the evening. This felt like our first proper “posh” stop of the road trip.
Our room was huge, stylish and comfortable. After a quick freshen-up, we set off to explore.
First Impressions of Toronto
Armed with guidebook suggestions, we headed to Yonge Street, billed as Toronto’s Broadway. Unfortunately, it didn’t live up to the hype. Between the street preachers, protest groups, beggars and closed cafés, it felt a little rough around the edges. By 4 p.m., most restaurants were shutting, so we settled for a couple of uninspiring sandwiches and coffees before being politely ushered out as they closed up.
At that point, we were starting to wonder if Toronto was going to be our first real disappointment. But a wander towards St Lawrence Market lifted our mood. The area had a more relaxed feel, full of history and independent shops. A friendly chat with the owner of a year-round Christmas shop sealed it — Toronto clearly had charm; we’d just been looking in the wrong place.
Evening Entertainment – Morrissey Live in Toronto
Ever since my teenage years I’ve been an unapologetic Smiths and Morrissey fan, and against all odds he happened to be playing live in Toronto that very night. Even more surprisingly, Deb agreed to come along.
At 6 p.m. we jumped into a taxi outside the hotel and headed to the Budweiser Stage. Excited was an understatement. The venue was incredible, the atmosphere perfect, and Morrissey was — dare I say — majestic. I’ll post videos and a full gig write-up separately, but even Deb, a reluctant attendee, admitted he was brilliant.
Late-Night Tacos and Timbits
After the gig we grabbed a taxi back into town, still buzzing from the show. Not quite ready to call it a night, we wandered until we found a Mexican bar serving margaritas and tacos. A couple of drinks later we rounded off the night the Canadian way — with coffee and a box of Timbits (mini doughnuts) from Tim Hortons before heading back to the hotel to unwind. A perfect end to a long, varied, and unexpectedly magical day.
Next Up
Tomorrow we have a full day exploring Toronto properly — markets, music, museums and maybe a trip up the CN Tower. After a slow start, the city’s definitely growing on us.
