Day 4 of our East Coast USA road trip was a driving day in every sense — the kind where the journey itself becomes the highlight. We left Ithaca at first light, coffee and pastries in hand, ready to swap college-town calm for the open road and our first full day behind the wheel in earnest.
Leaving Ithaca
We grabbed breakfast from a local gas station — oversized pastries and hot coffee — and set off north. Determined to avoid the freeways, we took to the local roads, which meant plenty of wrong turns but also plenty of charm. The Finger Lakes region looked stunning in the morning light: rolling hills, deep blue water and miles of tree-lined roads.
Through Amish Country
As the landscape flattened into farmland, the scenery became a postcard of rural America. Red-roofed barns, grain silos and endless fields dotted the horizon. Then we noticed a road sign featuring a horse and cart — a clue that we’d reached Amish Country.
We didn’t pass any horse-drawn buggies on the road, but we were lucky enough to see Amish families working in the fields and children playing in traditional dress and straw hats. It felt like stepping briefly into another world — a glimpse of a lifestyle that remains beautifully untouched by time.
Arriving at Niagara Falls
By late morning we rolled into Niagara Falls. The falls themselves were every bit as spectacular as we’d hoped — you can read the full story of our visit here.
Niagara Town – A Surprising Disappointment
Leaving the falls, we drove through Niagara Town and were genuinely taken aback. “Tacky” hardly covers it. The streets were lined with wax museums, haunted houses, themed restaurants and neon-lit burger joints — Blackpool-on-the-Niagara. It reminded us a little of Gatlinburg, Tennessee: touristy, loud and completely at odds with the natural wonder just down the road.
Thankfully, we hadn’t planned to stop for long. Instead, we followed the Niagara River Parkway, pausing at viewing points to photograph the calmer stretches of river on our way towards the quieter beauty of Niagara-on-the-Lake.
The Living Water Wayside Chapel
Not far from town we spotted a sign claiming “The World’s Smallest Chapel.” Naturally, we had to investigate. The Living Water Wayside Chapel is barely big enough for two people, perched beside the road with a perfect view of the fields beyond. We stopped for photos and a look inside before discovering a nearby farm shop.
As the afternoon sun broke through, we treated ourselves to huge ice creams and sat outside watching the world go by — the perfect road-trip pause.
Arrival in Niagara-on-the-Lake
We reached The Old Bank House Hotel around 5 pm, checked in and dropped off our bags. With daylight still on our side, we took a short stroll down to the lakeshore. The peaceful waterfront, lined with sailboats and flowers, was a welcome contrast to the neon chaos we’d left behind in Niagara Town. A fitting end to a day of scenic miles and small discoveries.
Evening at the Microbrewery
That evening, we wandered into a local microbrewery for dinner — a relaxed spot with a guitarist playing live. The food was hearty, the atmosphere easy-going, and the beer came as a tasting flight of twelve one-third pint glasses. After working through the local IPAs and lagers, we chose a favourite and had a couple of full glasses to finish the night.
A gentle stroll (and slight stagger) back to the hotel followed, and we fell into bed happily tired after another day filled with good roads, good views, and good beer.
Next Up
Tomorrow we hit the road again, leaving the quiet charm of Niagara-on-the-Lake behind as we make our way to Toronto. It’s a shorter drive but promises plenty to see along the way — from vineyard-dotted roads to lakeside towns and, finally, the buzz of Canada’s biggest city. Time to swap peaceful scenery for the bright lights of Toronto.
